L'Arte dei Vinattieri
Dateline: 08/27/97
In
the early 1980s, there was a delicatessen on Borgo San Frediano, which
had, above the counter, a photograph from the 30's of a wine cart: The
cart itself was simple enough, but its load was a fantastic construction
of wine flasks that looked very much like a medieval schooner with rising
bow and stern. Lashed to the flasks was a sign that said Pampaloni, and
the pride of the man standing by the horse was very obvious.
Alas, Mrs. Pampaloni has retired, taking her photograph with her.
However, you can still see one of these carts, pulled by a pair of bovi,
the white oxen who worked Tuscan farms before the advent of tractors, in
Florence at the Parata dell' Arte dei Vinattieri, which
the Wine Maker's Guild holds each year to celebrate its presenting the
newly released Vintage to the City Authorities (the mayor, today, though
in the past it would have been the Court).
The parade, which will take place on September 26th this year, will begin at about 4 in the afternoon in Piazza Santa Croce. In addition to the Masters of the Guild, there will be Ladies, officers of one kind and another, a military company, and flag twirlers, all dressed in Renaissance costume.
From Santa Croce they proceed, ignoring the stares of the curious, to
Piazza del Duomo, where the wine cart awaits them, then all continue down
Via dei Calzaioli to the Chiesa di San Carlo dei Lombardi (facing
Orsanmichele), where there's a Mass. After the mass all go to Piazza della
Signoria, where the flag twirlers display their skills, while there's wine
and merriment for all who wish to partake.
SEPTEMBER IS, IN TERMS OF WINE, a busy month in Tuscany. In addition to the parade in Florence, there is:
- Impruneta, September 26: The Festa dell'Uva, a competition between the town's four neighborhoods to see who can build the best allegorical float representing the harvest. There's also quite a bit of street theater involved, and it's lots of fun. Don't miss the wine show, which features bottles with special labels printed for the occasion.
- Greve, the First Week of September (culminates the second
weekend, this year Sep. 10-12): The Mostra Mercato del Chianti
Classico. Several days of tastings and conferences dedicated to wine
during the day, and theater and performances at night. There is a charge
per glass, but many of the wines are well worth it. The only drawback:
Tasting is limited to Chianti Classico – no Super
Tuscans.
- Portoferraio (LI), the First 11 days September: Elban wines.
- Montecarlo (LU), the first 11 days of September: The wines of Lucchesia -- some very interesting things here.
- Gaiole in Chianti, September 4-8: Settembre Gaiolese, a gastronomic extravaganza.
- Montespertoli (PI), September 7th: La Sagra dell'Uva, a winefest.
- Buonconvento, September 14-21: Sagra della Val D'Arbia. Some interesting things here -- this is the land of Brunello and Vino Nobile.
- Chiusi, September 21: Sagra dell'Uva e del Vino -- tasting, local delicacies, and the opening of the cellars of the wineries.
- Panzano in Chianti, September 19-21: Vino al Vino -- superb wines from the Conca D'Oro.
- Rufina, September 23-26: Bacco Artigiano, the wines of the Chianti Rufina area.
As you might guess, most of the activity is concentrated on the weekends. September is also a wonderful month to explore the countryside. Chianti is beautiful, as is the Rufina area, and there's also Montepulciano. San Gimignano will be wonderful, and for something really different visit a grappa distillery.
Don't drink too much, and have a great time!
Kyle Phillips
