On the Truffle Trail
If the thought of a truffle makes you shiver in anticipation, you should plan on coming to Italy in the fall: You'll find two kinds to choose from, black truffles, which are those available elsewhere, and white truffles, which are primarily limited to Italy. Though each variety has its supporters, Pellegrino Artusi, author of The Art of Eating Well, (find out about my translation of the book) observed more than a century ago that the white truffle is much more delicate, while more recently Marcella Hazan declared there's no point in making a fuss over black truffles when one can enjoy white ones. There's no better place to fuss over truffles than a truffle fair.
The best known is certainly Alba's (in Piemonte); walking into the dealer's tent, where the truffle aromas are so strong you could almost eat them with a spoon, is an uplifiting experience of the kind most often associated with religious conversions. But Alba is certainly not alone -- white truffles grow throughout central and northern Italy (indeed, many "Alban" truffles are trucked in from elsewhere because Alban truffles command better prices), and every town that can organizes something. Though none are as big as Alba's, there are some that come fairly close, in particular the festivals of San Miniato (Tuscany) and Acqualagna (Marche). All the major festivals take place over several weekends during the fall, and feature truffle markets, seminars, and truffle-based dinners in local restaurants.
The Major Festivals
Alba
One of the oldest Italian
truffle festivals, and certainly the most prestigious. The area is also quite
pretty, and here you'll find suggestions for things to do when you've had
enough of thr truffle tent, or if you're visiting in the off season.
San Miniato
If you're visiting
Italy from afar, San Miniato's truffle festival will likely be more easily
accessible. The town is a bout a half hour from Florence, and will make an
excellent day-trip.
Acqualagna
Rich, a pretty town, and
easier to reach than Piemonte or Tuscany if you're on the eastern side of the
Peninsula.
More Truffle Info, and some US Sources
La Fiera del Tartufo, un po
di storia
The history of Alba's truffle fair, which was first
held in 1899. Interesting, in Italian.
La Fiera del Tartufo di
Murisengo
Another festival, in Piemonte, on the weekends of
the 12th and 19th November.
Ecology
and Cultivation of Tuber Magnatum Pico
"White truffle (Tuber
magnatum Pico), the most prized truffle species, commands the highest price (up
to $3,000 per kg) on the market..." A detailed account by Mattia Bencivenga,
from Proceedings of the first international meeting on the "Ecology, Physiology
and Cultivation of Edible Mycorrhizal Mushrooms"
The Hunt for White
October
Sims Brannon meets and goes exploring with Piemonte's
truffle men.
Chef's
Table
Jim Coleman and Candace Hagan give all sorts of
information on Truffles... The black ones from Périgord, but it's
entertaining nonetheless.
Truffles
An
excellent factual article with info on purchasing (including American
varieties), cleaning and storage, and a number of recipes and usage tips.
Nicely done.
The Truffle FAQ
Tanith Tyrr tells all about a gift from the Gods, and gives many
recipes too.
Oregon White Truffles
James Beard felt they rivaled the Italian. Information about them, and you
can also buy them here.
The World of
Truffles
An interesting page in which we learn that the
Marche is the only part of Italy where one can find all the varieties of
truffles, and can also check on truffle seasons. Handy!
Truffles in the
Marches!
All about them -- turns out there are 16 species,
only two worth killing for. From the Marche Voyager.
The Truffle Market
They
sell both whites and blacks.
OK, You Have Truffles. Now What?
First of all, be gentle with
them. No hot water, no rough scrubbing. Simply wipe off any dirt that may be on
them with a moistened cloth. Then store them in rice, so their aroma will
permeate the rice (this is the classic Italian way of storing them, though I
wouldn't store them for more than 3-4 days, lest they loose their aromas).
You'll likely want to use black truffles as an ingredient, and cook them. You
can do the same with white truffles, but many feel that they give their best
when they are finely shaved or shredded (there's a special truffle slicer you
can buy, which will allow you to shave your truffles paper thin) and then
sprinkled over a bland dish, for example tajarin (Piemontese tagliarini, very fine egg
pasta) that have been seasoned with unsalted butter and just a little grated
cheese. The blandness of the dish keeps it from distracting, while its warmth
liberates the truffle's aromas; the result is, given the proper setting, one of
the most romantic things one could possibly imagine.
Of course Valentine's Day only happens once a year, and we don't always have designs on our dining companions, even if they are worthy of sharing truffles with us. Here are some other ideas:
Salsa Tartufata
Artusi's
truffle-based sauce for meats of all kinds.
Carne Cruda
Raw meat, a specialty of
Piemonte. If you eat meat, try it -- it's surprisingly good.
Insalata Di Radicchio Rosso di Treviso con
Tacchino
A tasty red radicchio salad with turkey and
truffles.
Mousse di Pollo e Prosciutto
An
elegant chicken and ham mousse laced with truffles: perfect for an elegant meal
or party.
Bresaola
The Valtellina's delicate
air-cured meat can now be found in the US. Info, and a recipe with optional
truffles.
Cardata alla Torinese
A tasty
cardoon-based antipasto to keep winter at bay.
Risotto al Tartufo Bianco
Risotto
with white truffles, for a very special occasion.
Risotto allo Champagne
Rather
debauched, but when the occasion is right.... With lots of truffles
too.
Risotto con la Fonduta
A libidinous
truffle-laced cheesy risotto.
Agnolotti
The classic Piemontese
stuffed pasta, with a meat-based filling that can include truffles
too.
Tortellini alla Panna
Tortellini
and cream sauce make a surprisingly happy marriage, which becomes libidinous
with the addition of truffles
Pasticcio di Maccheroni
Artusi's
version of a rich Emilian dish used to celebrate Carnival -- and what happened
to the man who ate one all by himself.
Patate Tartufate
Potatoes and
truffles are an inspired combination.
Polenta Pasticciata alla Milanese
A
rich, elegant baked polenta dish with meat, mushrooms and truffles, to keep
winter at bay.
Fonduta al Tartufo
Fondue can be
extraordinarily elegant. Especially when it has truffles in it.
Pollastrina alla Crema di Latte
Hen
cooked in a cream sauce is extremely delicate, and well suited to a special
occasion, especially when one adds the optional truffles.
Pollo Ripieno
Artusi's recipe for
stuffed chicken, featuring chestnuts, porcini and truffles ("if you have
them").
Artusi's Cotoletta alla Milanese
"Anyone can make a veal cutlet," says Artusi, who proposes a tasty variation.
Artusi's Cotoletta alla Bolognese
A
breaded veal cutlet, graced with cheese and truffles.
Filetti di Bue Ripiene al Tartufo
Beef filet stuffed with truffles and mozzarella.
Vitello Trifolato alla Bolognese
A
heavenly, seductive Bolognan roast potatoes and veal with white
truffles.
The Most
Expensive Burger on the Planet
"...Whoever said 'money can't
buy happiness' didn't know where to shop..." A truffle-laced burger; the
language of the site is not for the easily offended.
Truffle
recipes
A collection from an incredibly detailed mushroom
site.
AND FINALLY:
Tartufi Dolci Bianchi e Neri
Truffles
are usually savory, but not when made of chocolate.
Have a great time!
Kyle Phillips
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