Pasta al Cartoccio

This August Lee requested Vitello Tonnato, which, in addition to being very summery, is also one of the highlights of the traditional Ascension Day dinner in Milano. What to serve before as a first course? Pasta could be quite nice, and one of the most spectacular ways of serving it is al cartoccio -- boiled, sauced, then wrapped in paper and baked. As a preparation method this may sound odd, but your guests will greet the arrival of the packets at the table with mounting anticipation that will turn to joy as they open them and savor the aromas that burst forth.

This recipe calls for a considerable variety of shellfish, many of which are strictly Mediterranean and that you will have to find substitutes for. Your best bet will be to visit your fishmonger and ask for advice. If the shells of the shellfish (clams etc.) are pretty, scrub them very well before you begin making the sauce, and don't shuck them after they have opened: Put them shells and all in the cartoccio and they'll add a special something to the finished dish.

It serves 4 and will take about an hour to prepare.

• 3/4 pound spaghetti
• 20 small calamari (squids)
• 10 carpet shell clams (vongole veraci)
• 8 date shell mussels (datteri di mare, assuming they're allowed where you live -- in the Mediterranean they're protected)
• 8 Warty Venus clams (tartufi di mare)
• 4 mussels
• 4 giant prawns (sparnocchi)
• 4 large shrimp
• A reef mullet
• 3 moderately ripe tomatoes, blanched, peeled, seeded and chopped finely
• 1 clove garlic, crushed
• 1/2 a hot red pepper, seeded and shredded
• 5 basil leaves
• 2 tablespoons minced parsley
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• Salt to taste
• Aluminum foil

Wash all the shellfish very well, and scale and clean the mullet. Set a pot with three quarts of lightly salted water to boil.

In the meantime, pour the quarter cup of olive oil into a large skillet, and add to it the garlic, the shredded pepper, and the seafood. Cook over a low flame for 5 minutes, then add the chopped tomatoes, parsley and basil. Simmer for 15 minutes. Preheat your oven to 450 F (250C).

Keep an eye on the pasta pot as the sauce simmers, and when the water boils add the pasta. Let it cook until half done, then drain it into a colander, and transfer it while it is still dripping to the skillet with the sauce. Toss the pasta-sauce mixture by moving the skillet as you would if you were flipping an omelette. Roll out a long sheet of aluminum foil and fold up the sides to make a box-like container. Transfer the pasta to the container, fold the aluminum foil over it, and crimp the edges together to make a sealed pouch (you can also make individual pouches for your guests if you wish). Bake in the oven for 5 minutes, at which point the pouch will have puffed up. Slide it onto a serving dish and open it at the table.

Two More versions of Cartoccio:
Spaghetti al Cartoccio coi Gamberetti -- a simple version for true shrimp lovers.
Spaghetti al Cartoccio Vucciria -- something extravegant for a very special occasion.